The Science Behind Lash Adhesives and pH: A Guide for Lash Artists
At Elusive Beauty, we strive to empower lash artists with knowledge that elevates their craft and ensures optimal results for clients. This blog explores the relationship between pH, cyanoacrylate adhesives, and lash products, as well as the role of common ingredients in ensuring safe, effective, and long-lasting lash applications.
Understanding pH and Its Role in Lash Application
What is pH?
pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline a substance is, on a scale from 0 to 14:
- Acidic: pH below 7 (e.g., lemon juice, vinegar)
- Neutral: pH of 7 (e.g., water)
- Alkaline (Basic): pH above 7 (e.g., baking soda, ammonia)
The pH of lash products significantly impacts chemical reactions during lash application, including the curing process of cyanoacrylate adhesives.
The pH of the Ocular Surface, Eyelids, and Eyelashes
Maintaining the natural pH of the eye area is essential for client safety and comfort.
- Ocular Surface (Eye): Neutral to slightly alkaline, with a pH of 7.0–7.4.
- Eyelids and Eyelashes: Slightly acidic, with a pH of 5.5–6.5.
Products with a pH level too far from these ranges can cause irritation, dryness, or imbalance, affecting both the client’s comfort and the adhesive’s performance.
The Chemistry of Cyanoacrylate Adhesives
Cyanoacrylate adhesives, used in lash extensions, have a slightly acidic pH of 4–5. This specific pH is crucial for controlling curing speed and ensuring strong, durable bonds.
How Cyanoacrylate Adhesives Work:
- Moisture-Activated Curing: Cyanoacrylate polymerizes (cures) when exposed to moisture, such as the humidity in the air or the natural moisture on lashes.
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Role of pH:
- Neutral to slightly alkaline environments accelerate curing.
- Highly acidic or alkaline environments disrupt curing, resulting in weak or brittle bonds.
How pH Affects Lash Adhesive Curing
The products used before and after applying lash extensions influence the adhesive's curing process:
Acidic Products (pH < 7):
- Effect: Slows down curing, leading to weaker bonds and poor retention.
- Example: Highly acidic primers or shampoos can leave residue that interferes with adhesive performance.
Neutral to Slightly Alkaline Products (pH 7–8):
- Effect: Creates optimal curing conditions for strong and lasting bonds.
- Example: Properly pH-balanced cleansers and bonders support the adhesive’s performance.
Highly Alkaline Products (pH > 8):
- Effect: Speeds up curing too quickly, causing "shock curing." Bonds may become brittle and prone to breakage.
Common Ingredients in Lash Products and Their pH
Understanding the ingredients and pH of lash shampoos, primers, bonders, sealants, and adhesives helps lash artists optimize results while maintaining safety and comfort for clients.
1. Lash Shampoos (pH 5.5–6.5):
Used to cleanse natural lashes before application.
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine (pH 5–7): Gentle cleanser.
- Decyl Glucoside (pH 5.5–6.5): Skin-friendly surfactant.
- Witch Hazel Extract (pH 3–5): Removes debris and excess oils.
- Glycerin (pH 4.5–7): Retains moisture.
2. Lash Primers (pH 7–9):
Removes oils and debris while dehydrating lashes.
- Alcohol (pH-neutral): Effective oil remover.
- Panthenol (pH 6–7): Hydrates and conditions.
- Sodium PCA (pH 6–7): Maintains hydration balance.
3. Bonders (pH 6–7):
Seal the bond after lash application, reducing fumes and enhancing flexibility.
- Acrylate Copolymer (pH-neutral): Forms a flexible seal.
- Hydrolyzed Collagen (pH 5–7): Strengthens bonds.
- Propylene Glycol (pH 6–7): Adds moisture to prevent brittleness.
4. Sealants (pH 6–7):
Protect lash extensions from environmental damage and improve retention.
- PVP (pH-neutral): Creates a protective coating.
- Carbomer (pH 3–4): Provides gel-like consistency.
- Allantoin (pH 6–7): Soothes the lash line.
5. Lash Adhesives (pH 4–5):
Primary bonding agent.
- Ethyl Cyanoacrylate (pH 4–5): Main component for strong adhesion.
- PMMA (pH-neutral): Enhances flexibility.
- Carbon Black (pH-neutral): Adds pigmentation for a darker adhesive.
Best Practices for pH and Lash Products
To ensure optimal results, lash artists should follow these guidelines:
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Pre-Application:
- Use cleansers and primers with a pH close to 5.5–6.5 to clean and prepare the lashes without disrupting the natural balance.
- Avoid overly acidic or alkaline products that may interfere with the adhesive.
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During Application:
- Monitor room humidity (40–60%) and temperature for ideal curing conditions.
- Ensure the adhesive’s pH (4–5) remains consistent by using compatible products.
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Post-Application:
- Apply bonders or sealants with a neutral or slightly acidic pH (6–7) to stabilize the adhesive bond and reduce fumes.
Conclusion
Mastering the science behind pH and its impact on lash products can dramatically improve the quality, safety, and longevity of lash extensions. At Elusive Beauty, we prioritize educating lash artists to deliver exceptional results while maintaining the highest standards of client care. By understanding the pH of the ocular area, cyanoacrylate adhesives, and common lash products, you can ensure optimal adhesive performance and client satisfaction.
